- SEATPOST DIAMETER SIZES:
- 1988 Traveller (blue and white fade - no tubeset sticker) 25.4mm MONACO
- 1985 Monaco (metallic maroon, pink headtube - 4130 main tube sticker) - no seatpost, will have to see what fits and it is between 25.4mm and 27.0mm (the only seat posts I had at hand) SUPERLITE
- 1984 Superlite (metallic tan, brown headtube - 4130 sticker) 26.6mm
- 1988 Superlite (blue and white - 535 giant cromo frame) - 26.6mm
- 1991 Superlite (Pearl white 7 speed - 4130 main tubes sticker) 26.4mm NISHIKI OLYMPIC 12 OLYMPIC 12
- 1988 Olympic 12 (blue and white - 535 giant cromo frame) 26.6mm OLYMPIC 14 (Lugged)
- 1991 Olympic 14 (marbled purple and black - 4130 sticker) 26.4mm OLYMPIC 14 (Lugless) NISHIKI TRI A TRI A
- 1991 Victory Tri A (white with yellow and blue fades - no tubeset sticker) - 27.0mm
- 1989 Victory Tri A (red with yellow fade - tange infinity tubeset ) - 27.0mm
I have a pair of (circa 1995?) wolber GTA 700 gentleman rims. They seem like heavy-rider or training rims for road riding. A little light for touring IMHO. As far as getting tires on and off, I have Continental Ultra, wire bead in 700c/23 tires and getting them on and off was a pain until i figured out this: Here’s a good way to do it: 1. Use 2 levers side by side to start off. 2. Keep one lever in place, remove the other 3. Leaving the first lever in place, use another two levers together to continue 4. Continue ‘Walking’ around the rim using two levers together all the way around If that explanation was clear as mud, sorry. The idea is to use more than one lever in order to give yourself more leverage and to keep the parts that you already got on/off in place where you want them. This method worked for me to replace flats many times, and once you get used to it, it really is not bad.
So, when replacing the BB how do I know if the BB I order online will fit into the frame of the bike? The BB I removed is a Shimano, and only has the following written on it: Shimano 03=W=113 Japan VIA D-3H PC. The section of the frame it slots into has the code C1077646 stamped onto it. No idea what this means.
The diameter of the part of the frame it fits into has an internal diameter of 35mm, and a width of 67-68mm, as measured by my ruler. It is a tapered square type. The 113, is the length of the spindle`s total length, the 3H confirms the 113mm total length and the 3 in the 3H meaning 68mm bb width. Assuming the bike was fitted with double front chain rings? this bb would give you a 43.5mm chain line,i think that what you need, is to reduce the spindle length 0.75mm per side, this is not poosible as the sizing runs-110 or 113.The easiest option would be to find a .75 mm washer and place it on the non drive side or dont worry about it.Im sure the critics will soon point out things if im wrong
Hmmm - you have got the bug, haven’t you?
This could be a good learning project if you do as much of the work as you can yourself, spending money on tools rather than workshop time. There’s loads of good stuff about bike maintenance on the web, particularly on the Park Tools site and at Sheldon Brown’s .
1. A place to be particularly wary of rust is on the r/h chainstay, if the chain has ever been trapped between it and the chainring and gouged the paint.
2. Feel the underside of the top tube and down tubes just behind the head tube for giveaway ripples in the paint which indicate a front-on crash and consequent rearrangement of the front end geometry.
3. See “The String Method” here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
If it passes all three tests, breathe a big sigh of relief… from what I can see, it looks OK.
Wire brush, then Trustan is good stuff for neutralising rust. After Trustan, you *must* use primer before painting. Wire wool removes rust from chrome, if not too far gone.
Colour? Search me - pink? Oh, all right, then - pale blue?
“535” is probably meaningless, but double butted = GOOD. It looks like a nicely made frame. The previous user has the quick releases on the wrong side of the wheels!
New saddle, tyres, brake blocks, cables and handlebar tape make all the difference. I wouldn’t replace anything else, but all bearings should be re-greased. Not by a paid mechanic, though - the labour charge won’t be justifiable. I wouldn’t replace the chain - either it isn’t “stretched”, in which case why bother, or it is, in which case the cassette will have come to like it the way it is and a new one will only give grief by skipping sprocket teeth unpredictably (actually, predictably - when you have just got out the saddle and your nads are in greatest danger of hitting the top tube…).
Super Champion rims are very good - they do not have such a pronounced “hook” as more recent rims, so are kinder to tyre beads. Just make sure that your tyres are well seated - inflate to maximum recommended pressure and leave overnight before riding!
Actually this is probably going to be my project tumblr because yesterday I found this and invested $60 to give myself a new project.
Its a Repco Olympic 12, Repco basically are Kmart bikes now, but back
in the day they used to actually produce some pretty high end stuff and
these have a bit of a cult following here in ‘Stralia, essentially
because…it’s a Giant/Nishiki!
So the good news is its double butted chromo 535, the bad news is its
got a fair bit of rust and is going to have to be completely stripped
Good news - Sugino cranks, Exage gearing which appears to be in
reasonable condition (6 speed cassette in goodish condition on first
look, stem shifters - indexed), Nitto bars and stem, seatpost isn’t
corroded in, Dia Compe brakes, can’t tell about the levers yet. Wolber
Super Champion ‘Gentleman’ rims, Joytech hubs that look reasonably good.
Bad news…LOTS of muck which will doubtless clean off, lots of
tarnish to the chrome - some of which will clean but much of which is
beyond redemption (thankfully not much chrome though), lots and LOTS
of rust though. Unsure as to quite how bad it is yet but the weekend
clean should reveal more.
Now I just have to strip it as best I can, clean it and assess it…I
know it needs repainting, whether I do this or get it powder coated
will depend on the cost tbh (any thoughts on colour?) It will need new
bar tape, lever hoods, brake blocks, tyres and tubes and a saddle, chain and
probably cables too but they look to be in pretty good condition. I
imagine it may need a new BB and it will need new SPD pedals.
I think I can pretty much strip it, I need a chain breaker and a tool
to remove the cranks though.
The worst case scenario is that cleaning reveals damage to the frame, if
so I’ll strip it for parts and eBay them to make the money back and
then go and get a cheapo bike when I can.
I like the idea of having a project and being able to learn a bit more through the process of doing it myself. Hopefully I can come up with an end
result that not only makes me proud but also is a pleasure to ride.
I hope I haven’t bitten off too much…